Invited to discover Virginia wines by winemakers from the official Commonwealth of Virginia region of the United States of America, in the lair of Philippe Faure-Brac, Maître des lieux at the restaurant-cave “Le Bistrot du Sommelier” on Bd Haussmann in Paris, and here we report on our delightful discoveries.
We are greeted first by a Brut Blanc de Blanc 2021. Méthode traditionnelle 100% Chardonnay. A wine aged according to Champagne methods, with a fairly low dosage of 5g. Located in Monticello, in central Virginia, near Charlottesville. A subtle, fresh wine. A good start to awaken the taste buds. We owe this first tasting to King Family Vineyards.
The cellar master, Matthieu Finot, is a man of the art, as I’ll have the opportunity to see for myself with some of his other creations. For example, this Meritage.
In general, Virginia wines have several distinctive features that make them unique: the grape varieties (75% are Vitis Vinifera, such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Viognier and Petit Verdot. Norton, an indigenous grape variety, is also grown and appreciated for its ability to thrive in the local climate.
The following wineries are presented to us this evening: King Family Vineyards, mentioned above, Chateau Morissette Winery, Hark Vineyards, Michaël Shaps Wineworks, Rosemont Vineyards and Barboursville Vineyards.
Virginia’s terroir enjoys a humid subtropical climate, with hot, humid summers and year-round rainfall. These conditions can be challenging for viticulture, but they also contribute to rich, structured wines with expressive aromas.
In terms of style, Virginia wines are often described as lush yet structured, aromatic and balanced. They combine the subtlety of Old World wines with the boldness of New World wines. Bordeaux-style blends are particularly appreciated and renowned in the region.
More than thirty types of grape are grown in Virginia. They are divided into 10 regions and 8 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas).
Viticulture in Virginia dates back to the first settlers in 1609. Thomas Jefferson, one of the founding fathers of the United States, played an important role in promoting viticulture, although his attempts to cultivate European grape varieties were not successful at the time. Huguenots, forced to flee France due to religious and political persecution by the Catholic Church and the Crown, settled in the region. And so it was that my tablemate, Mister David Morrisette, introduced us to his Vidal Blanc 2023 from the Blue Ridge region. This single varietal, Vidal Blanc, is a very resistant hybrid that resembles Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and is very fine. The family has been making wine in the region since the 1980s. They were among the first 3 to grow vines in the region. (There are currently 300 estates listed throughout Viriginia, divided into 10 distinct viticultural regions and 8 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), each with its own terroir characteristics. This diversity enables the production of a wide range of wine styles.
So we’re tasting this Vidal Blanc 2023 from David Morissette Winery with a Carpaccio of scallops with candied citrus fruits, which allows us to navigate between the iodized flavors and the fruit.
Then, as a second wine to this dish, we enjoy a very interesting Petit Manseng 2021 from Hark Vineyards, located in Central Virginia. This grape variety, native to the foothills of the Pyrenees, is also found in Gascony and thus in the New World, producing wines with pronounced aromatic flavors.
This beautiful introduction made us dream of listening to music as fragrant as it is light by Camila Perez from her album: Virginia justement :
To continue, Rosemont Vineyards takes us to southern Virginia and offers us its 2017 Cabernet Franc. The vines are planted between two lakes, giving them a cool, temperate climate. This wine, aged in French oak barrels, has reached full maturity. Unlike many Californian wines, the balance between wood and fruit is perfectly respected. It shows a great savoir-faire that has nothing to envy to the wines we uncork in France.
It should be added that, to fully appreciate this wine, Maître Faure-Brac had his chef concoct for us a Quasi de veau rôti, jus réduit aux brisures de truffe… I’ll say no more.
Oh yes! With this delicious dish from our regions, we have the opportunity to taste two other excellent reds:
A 2017 Petit Verdot, from Michael Shaps Wineworks. This is a single-varietal Petit Verdot, which is rare to work with in this way, without combining it with other grape varieties. It has more nose and complexity than its predecessor. Mr. Shaps explains that this grape variety is particularly well adapted to the climate of his terroir. The vinification is traditional, and ageing in Burgundy oak barrels does the rest.
We finish with the Octagon 2007 from Barboursville Vineyards in central Virginia.
It’s a subtle blend of 66% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, finished with a touch of Petit Verdot. Fermented for 8 days before being aged in barrels.
An excellent wine for laying down, with great length on the palate.
In the face of so much beautiful emotion, I thought of Ella Fitzgerald, nicknamed “The First Lady of Song”, born in Newport News, Virginia, and recognized as one of the greatest singers in the history of jazz.
So let’s listen to the diva in Early Autumn
In Europe and France, we know more about American jazz than we do about its wines. We recognize the superiority and origin of jazz terroirs in the United States. Apart from California wines, we know little about the various vineyards (but we recently learned about New York State wines!).
But in Virgina, the skills, experience and expertise arrived. The terroir was there, and so was the craft. Virginia’s winemakers are renowned for their experimental spirit, trying out new techniques and grape varieties to make the most of the region’s unique terroir.
Finally, for dessert, a bit like the “icing on the cake”… we were treated to Gougères aux fromages and compotée à la mangue vanillée, the perfect accompaniment to a stunning Lorely 2021 from King Family Vineyards.
The Loreley is a 100% Petit Manseng variety.
The idea of Vin de Paille and Jurançon, which are sweet, richly-flavored wines well known in the Jura region but whose concept has spread to other parts of the world, can be found here.
The grapes are first dried to raise their natural sugar content. This makes an excellent sweet wine.
This Virginia Loreley 21 is of excellent quality, with good acidity. It is aged in oak and acacia barrels.
To discover, listen to Sweet Spicy, by Jany McPherson, for example.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
These assets make Virginia wines an attractive option for wine lovers looking for unique flavors and an already rich winemaking history.
Given the small quantities produced by Virginia Winegrowers, these wines are not really intended for export. The idea would be to taste them on the spot, as part of wine tourism trips.
But then, we strongly advise you to wait at least 4 years, until the maniac of surtaxes, brutalities of all kinds and obscurantism personified is finally condemned and, in any case, no longer in charge of this fascinating country.
NB: Virginia’s motto is “Sic semper tyrannis”, which means “Thus end tyrants”.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
©Photo Header Rosemont Vineyard
©Photos Couleurs Jazz
Translated with the Help of www.DeepL.com/Translator
RECENT COMMENTS