A Journey Along the Rhône: A Tasting of Vidal-Fleury Wines in Paris @ Philippe Excoffier.

It was at Restaurant Philippe Excoffier, just a stone’s throw from the Eiffel Tower, that this tasting of Vidal-Fleury wines took place.

The event was organized by Aurélie Soulat of Vinconnexion, at the invitation of the new CEO and winemaker Antoine Dupré, who, since taking office, has introduced numerous changes and improvements to bring the estate’s Rhône Valley wines in line with modern expectations in vinification and aging.

In this chic bistro with its hushed atmosphere, French cuisine expresses itself with precision and without ostentation. Here, ingredients are respected, cooking is exact, and the house’s famous soufflés play a score of their own.

The scene is set: an elegant table, a warm welcome. The tasting of three white wines and five reds can begin.

My neighbor, a journalist, an Englishman highly knowledgeable about wine, proves to be a true connoisseur. (One must always be wary of the English. They don’t make wine, but some of them know a great deal about it.) The man also happens to be the president of the largest amateur rugby club in Paris. Let’s call him David, since that is his name.

Rugby, now that’s my field. Having been actively involved with Attitude Rugby magazine for many years, we quickly find common ground. (With France having just beaten England at the last minute, I do have a slight advantage.)
“Good game, isn’t it?!”

After this brief aside, we find ourselves equally appreciative of the wines Antoine Dupré is pouring, as he shares their secrets. We do, however, disagree on two of the whites, where I detect a beautiful minerality. David disagrees entirely. For him, minerality in wine means nothing. We part ways on this essential question, neither yielding ground.

For the rest, how could one not agree on the quality of Vidal Fleury’s wines and the moment itself? It is with great pleasure that I share with you, dear readers and lovers of fine sensations, this rare experience.

The Whites: Freshness, Tension… and Gastronomy!

Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2023 (Marsanne 95%, Roussane 5%)

A clean, crystalline opening. White fruits, citrus, saline finish.
A wine that awakens the palate like a clear first note. Beautiful minerality, at least to my mind.

Saint-Péray 2024 (Marsanne)

More discreet, more floral. Fresh almond, delicate texture.
A gentle pause in the tasting.

Saint-Joseph Blanc 2024 (Marsanne 70%, Roussane 30%)

Greater amplitude. Ripe fruit, more assertive structure, lovely length.
The wine begins to settle in.

Un Condrieu 2022 with asparagus, poached egg, lemon and chive mousseline.

Here, the pairing becomes a stage.

The Condrieu 2022, rich and aromatic, unfolds notes of apricot, white flowers, and ripe fruit.
Opposite it, asparagus, always a delicate partner, finds unexpected balance thanks to the citrus mousseline and the creamy softness of the poached egg.

👉 Result:
the wine envelops, the dish illuminates.
An alliance where the richness of Viognier is guided by the freshness of lemon and vegetal finesse.

These sensations, carried by palate and nose, spread to other corners of the mind. And suddenly, I feel like listening to Eleonora Strino 4tet, in the piece “21 Marzo.”
I await your reactions, David included.

The Reds: Structure, Depth, and Crescendo

Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2023 (Syrah)
Accessible, fruity, immediately charming.
A generous opening.

Saint-Joseph Rouge 2022 (Syrah)
More structured, more spicy.
The wine gains seriousness.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2022 (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre)
More solar, more expansive. Ripe red fruits, spice, roundness.
The Rhône changes face, becoming more generous and enveloping.

Hermitage 2023 (Syrah)
Dense, deep, almost monumental.
More architecture than wine.

Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde 2021 (95% Syrah, 5% Viognier)
A dialogue between two mythical terroirs:
• Côte Brune: structure, depth
• Côte Blonde: finesse, aromatics

The result is a balanced wine blending black fruit, violet, spice, and great elegance.

With this exceptional wine, I felt like proposing a trio, the classic jazz formation: piano, bass, drums.
Three exceptional musicians: Martial Solal on piano, accompanied by the legendary rhythm section of Gary Peacock on bass and Paul Motian on drums.

Moments of Exception: When Wine Meets the Chef’s Signature.

Côte-Rôtie “La Chatillonne” 2019 & lobster soufflé, curry and ginger bisque

A defining moment.

The soufflé, signature of Philippe Excoffier, arrives like a golden cloud, airy yet intensely aromatic.
The bisque, lifted by curry and ginger, adds depth and controlled exoticism.

Opposite it, the Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde La Chatillonne 2019 (90% Syrah, 10% co-planted Viognier):
silky, complex, floral, with a caressing finesse.

👉 The pairing is remarkable:
• the soufflé plays with texture and delicacy
• the wine responds with precision and length

A subtle dialogue between restrained power and elegance.
Nothing dominates. Everything intertwines.

This whirlwind of sensations makes one want to swing along with Jeanne Michard and her track “Hip Hop entre les Fleurs.”

Cornas 2022 & Brie de Meaux with truffles

A change of register.

Cornas 2022 asserts its power: solid structure, firm tannins, earthy character.
Opposite it, Brie de Meaux with truffles unfolds creamy richness and aromatic depth.

👉 Here, the pairing is more instinctive:
the fat of the cheese softens the wine’s structure,
the truffle echoes the deep notes of the Syrah.

An earthy marriage, almost primal, like a firm handshake.

To finish, a delightful red fruit pavlova, followed by the house’s famous soufflé as a final indulgence.

What better way to conclude this shared moment than with a revisit of Gil Evans, performed by the quartet of drummer David Georgelet, pianist François Chesnel, with Yoni Zelnik on bass, and guest Thierry Lhiver on trombone.

The piece is aptly titled “Spoonful.”

Conclusion: A Warm Dialogue Between Terroir and Cuisine

This tasting is not merely a succession of wines.
It becomes a three-voiced conversation:

the terroirs of the Rhône, from north to south
the expertise of Vidal-Fleury
and the precise cuisine of Restaurant Philippe Excoffier

The pairings reveal an obvious truth:
here, wine does not merely accompany.
It converses, responds, extends.

At the heart of this experience, the chef’s soufflés play an unexpected role:
a bridge between power and lightness, between substance and finesse.

As if, for the duration of a meal, the Rhône had found in Paris a stage worthy of its voice. 🍷

And as a final nod to my neighbor David, who also appreciates jazz, a second piece from the album Live For Gil and a tribute to Miles Davis: “Miles Ahead.”